Tombstone Tourism: Medway Cemetery

It's that wonderful time of year again, when those of us crazy enough to enjoy pioneer cemeteries go on the prowl. Last Sunday I was at Medway, once Decker, Cemetery in the former London Township.

This cemetery is on 10 Mile Road just east of Richmond Street (or the 10th Concession, just east of the Proof Line or Hwy 4, if you live in the past like I do). Apparently, it was called Decker Cemetery until 1932* - or until 1936 if you prefer to believe the sign on the gate. 

The Deckers were early settlers on Lot 16 Con. 9 who came from the United States. As with most families in the "good old days," the Deckers lost at least one child at an early age. In 1833, little Teunis Decker died at age 4. Hence, the need to found a cemetery that year. One David Youngs Decker (1795-1891), the little fellow's uncle, donated the land. The child's gravemarker, carved from a stone found in nearby Medway Creek, was the first of many commemorating Deckers. Another early burial was that of David's wife Maria who died in 1841.

In the mid-1800s, a small Free Will Baptist Church was built just to the west. While some Baptists were buried in this cemetery, many of the graves are those of Presbyterians who attended Bethel Church over on the Proof Line. The Baptist church was not a long-term success, being used only for funerals after 1900 and being gone by 1920. 

Since my friend Nick is a descendent of Deckers, it's not surprising he'd be paying a visit on the cemetery decoration day held on the fourth Sunday of every June. Of course, he can come here any time he wants but "decoration days" are an opportunity to chat with the cemetery caretaker(s), local historians, and other folks with relatives buried within the gates, not to mention leave a donation for upkeep of the cemetery if you like. And, of course, I came along for the ride as usual, despite not having relatives here myself. When it comes to Tombstone Tourism, who needs relatives as an excuse? 

As in most of our cemeteries, a great many early markers are fragile, broken or illegible. Caretakers can cut the lawn but rarely have funds to do much else. Occasionally money comes from the township, from relatives, or from trust funds, but unless people are willing to spend more money on departed ancestors, we may as well get used to looking at stones like these:

Fortunately, historical societies and fundraising committees occasionally come up with funds for monuments like this, preserving the names of people who are known to have been buried here but for whom a monument is eroded or destroyed: 

Local resident Bill Dobbie chats with Nick Corrie who has ancestors, including Deckers, in Medway/Decker Cemetery.

* Cemetery and early Decker family information from London Township: A Rich Heritage, Vols. I p. 198 and Vol. II p. 82.

St. Mary's Napier, oldest church in Middlesex

Normally, if you want to see the pioneer buildings constructed by our ancestors, you have to visit a museum like Fanshawe Pioneer Village. That's because most of our early buildings were torn down and replaced with larger, grander ones as soon as it was practical to do so. If not demolished, the earliest buildings were usually modernized to include electricity, plumbing, openable windows, and insulation. Nobody likes privations. 

That's why it's fascinating to enter one of those rare pioneer structures that's almost completely unchanged. I'm talking about St. Mary's, Napier.

St. Mary's Anglican Church, Napier, southwest of Strathroy in the Township of Adelaide-Metcalfe, held its Annual Decoration Day service on Sunday, June 22, 2025. Fred Cahill, who lives down the road, rode his horse, Beauty, to the event. She was a reminder of those long-ago days when most of the congregation arrived by horse and buggy. 

This unassuming little frame building was built in about 1841 in the village of Napier in what was, in those days, Metcalfe Township.  Centre of a thriving community founded by retired veterans of the British Army and Navy, the church remained open for weekly services until about 1920.  Then, with a dwindling congregation, the church closed. Instead of being demolished, though, it became a Chapel of Ease, still used for occasional services like the one I attended with about 30 other people (and Beauty, the horse) last Sunday.

No, my ancestors didn't live nearby, they didn't worship here, and I don't have relatives buried in the adjoining graveyard. So why attend? Because St. Mary's is now the oldest remaining church in Middlesex County and a treat for history buffs.

The story inside the service booklet states that early settler Captain Christopher Beer (gravemarker at right) was about to build himself a new house out of the local black walnut. But when he heard a church was to be constructed, he put off the building of his own home and donated the lumber to the church project instead. The walnut was used to build the chancel, pulpit, pews, and wainscotting. It's still in there today, dark and handsome as ever. 

There was more to the building project than Captain Beer, of course. The land for the church and cemetery was donated by Lieutenant Charles Preston. The Phillips family donated the oak stringers and some bricks came from Captain Johnson's brickyard. That was how a pioneer community worked; everyone pitched in what they had, whether it was time, labour, materials, or funding. 

At one time, services were so popular that a gallery was installed to accommodate everyone. But by 1895, the  gallery was deemed unsafe and the congregation was too small by then to warrant it anyway. It was removed. 

Let's step inside and see what it's like today:

"Box pews" with doors, designed to provide warmth and privacy. Such doors were common before churches were heated, allowing seating areas to retain warmth, either from bodies sitting close together or from foot warmers. When pews were owned or rented, such doors helped ensure that everyone sat in the correct place. 

Fresh flowers for the Decoration Day service. Note the walnut pulpit.

Storage.

View from the pulpit.

Pump organ added in the 1900s has not worked for 20 years. (I heard a rumour about mice.)

Close-up of the foot pedals reading "Doherty Organ." For a history of Doherty, see here.

I wonder who was small enough to sit on the back row pews? Were Victorian bums this much smaller than ours? Or did children sit here? 

Photos and documents hang on the wall. Here's a photo of those in attendance on June 30, 1963 when the blue plaque from the Archaeological and Historic Sites Board of Ontario was placed out front. One of the gents is a great-grandson of Captain Beer. 

By the way, while sitting through the half hour service presided over by Rev. Patty Dobbs Luxton of Strathroy, I became aware of the extent to which our pioneer ancestors were at the mercy of the elements. It was over 30 degrees on Sunday and this little building has only one door, early unopenable windows, and no electricity. So no air conditioning and not even a cross breeze. The heat you can't imagine. Every time I stood up, my dress stuck to the rear of the pew. Just imagine sitting there in long sleeves, multiple petticoats and a bonnet. Egad. 

Next, think about winter. No electric heat. No insulation of the modern variety. (Could there be horse hair in those walls?) No storm windows. And I'm not sure if there was ever a wood stove. The congregation might have seen the officiant's breath in the air. Huddle with your neighbours to keep warm. 

Back outside, I trotted around the graveyard. Since I first visited St. Mary's back in the 1990s, the stones have greatly deteriorated. Aside from the monument to Captain Beer (now "Anchored in the harbour of eternal rest") the others are mainly illegible:

Some TLC is obviously needed. But I'm sure that diocese funds are woefully inadequate. What's required is a fundraising organization. Would someone like to start "The Friends of St. Mary's, Napier?" I'll join.

You may be wondering why this little church closed. That's easy. It's in a ghost town. Napier, on the Sydenham River, was once one of the most important villages in west Middlesex. It was a milling village, built to take advantage of the walnut trees in the vicinity. Once the walnut trees were depleted, there was obviously less work for the sawmills.

But in 1857, according to Lovell's Canada Directory, Napier also had a gristmill, woollen mill, school, store, blacksmith, shoemaker, waggon maker, saloon, and many homes. By 1864, there were two hotels, the Napier Inn and the Sydenham House, and a population of about 250. A post office named Napier opened on November 6, 1851, under postmaster James Keefer, who was running a store with Captain John Arthur. Mail came by stagecoach. 

In all probability, Napier faded after being bypassed by the railroads. Both branches of the Great Western Railway, later the Grand Trunk or CNR, were built elsewhere, the north branch through Kerwood and the southern through Glencoe. Later the village was bypassed by the CPR and the Michigan Central. The community just couldn't win. The post office closed in 1915. 

Recently there was an attempt to restore one of Napier's old buildings, the 1872 Napier House store. The effort failed and it now looks like this: 

Apparently a saviour is needed here too. 

A greater puzzle, as far as I'm concerned, is why St. Marys was preserved after closing. In 1939, it was in poor repair, turrets fallen off the tower, windows broken, and the graveyard thick with weeds. It was restored, when and by whom I'm not sure. But with no regular congregation, there was no need for updates. It seems that enough people cared about St. Mary's to preserve it, even if it remained a primitive pioneer structure.  

I hope it remains for many years to come. 

Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa Celebrates 190 Years

A view of Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa from Kilmartin Cemetery across Dundonald Road, west Middlesex County. 

On Sunday, March 30 at 2:00 pm I attended a rare event, an historic church celebrating an anniversary. At a time when many rural churches are closing, it's a pleasure to see one commemorating the 190th anniversary of the congregation. 

The March 30th event wasn't an actual church service, mind you, but a celebration of the surrounding community and the role Burns Presbyterian played in it. The occasion, more historical than religious, was entitled "A Stroll Through Time." Actors portrayed fictional, but plausible, characters from the church's past, including an early Scottish settler, a later Dutch arrival, the last Precentor, a member of the women's auxiliary, etc. Sometimes amusing and often poignant, the stories of former congregants were well written and allowed the modern audience to imagine life in Middlesex County, Ontario in the Good Old Days. 

Event flyer includes an old photograph of the church and cemetery.

One only needs to stroll through the nearby cemetery to discover the pioneers were Scottish. Gravestones list McPhails and McIntyres and McLachlans and McVicars and Campbells and Monroes ... Well, you get the picture. 

These Scottish Highlanders arrived in the 1820s after being dispersed from Argyllshire (now Argyll) during "the clearances" - the forced eviction of people from their homes in the Highlands and Scottish Isles between 1750 and 1860. Why the eviction? Because their landlords discovered they could make more money raising sheep than by traditional farming, and therefore chose to dislodge their former tenants. With nowhere to go, large numbers of Scots had no choice but to migrate across the sea to Upper Canada.

Being good Presbyterians, the settlers wanted a church. The first, built of logs in 1835, was opposite today's church on the site of the cemetery. Unfortunately, after work began, the builders had a disagreement about the location. Construction stopped. The congregation spent the first winter in an unfinished building with no roof, windows or floor. Brrrr! And since there were no pews, everyone sat on exposed boards. It's hard to imagine something less comfortable. Not surprisingly, when spring arrived, the congregants gave up on this edifice and started again. The site continued as the cemetery.

Rear of flyer shows the four Burns Presbyterian Church structures. Note the typo at upper right: it should say "Early 1840s"

Another, more successful, log church was built in the 1840s. Not only did it possess four walls and a roof, it even had a wood stove to provide warmth. Unfortunately, in the days when there were assigned pews, the stove was a problem. Those who sat at the front, farther from the stove, shivered through the services. Those whose pews were at the rear, near the stove, roasted. Half way through, someone at the rear would get up and close the damper, cutting off the heat altogether and causing folks at the front to freeze. One elderly man, whose family pew was among the chilly, decided he could no longer stand this state of affairs. Accordingly, one winter Sunday he took the damper off as he entered the church and carried it to the front with him.*

But progress dictated a brick building. Hence, in 1867, a new church was built. The first service in that building was held by Dr. Robert Burns, a well-known professor of church history at Knox College, Toronto. The congregation must have been very impressed with the staunch Dr. Burns; they promptly named the church after him. It's been Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa (the latter is the township) ever since. 

Unfortunately, when the church needed a new roof, slate was chosen. Being too heavy, it caused the walls to buckle. One imagines congregants looking nervously about them as they sat in their pews, wondering if this was the week the church would collapse on their heads. Yet another building was needed.

Thus the current church, finished 1892, came to be. It's been redecorated over the years, of course. A controversial organ - how shocking! - forced the retirement of the Last Precentor in the 1900s. The hand-dug basement allowed for a church kitchen and offices in the 1950s. 

Services have changed as well, not being in Gaelic since 1909. Interestingly, the flyer indicates a Gaelic Service, conducted by Rev. Theresa McDonald-Lee, will be held Sunday July 20 at 10:00 am. Who will understand it? And an anniversary service will be conducted by Rev. Laurie McKay on Sunday April 27 at 2:00 pm. How would Dr. Burns feel about female ministers, I wonder? 

I bought the church cookbook (right) while I was there. First of all, to support the church. Second, because I'm a sucker for church cookbooks, filled with delicious dips, satisfying soups, scrumptious baked goods (can't wait to try the Aero Bar Squares, made with real Aero Bars). And third, because as operational churches become rarer, so will church cookbooks. 

By the way, Burns was once a village church. The surrounding area was known as Kilmartin,** after a town back in Argyll. A post office by this name opened in 1861, operated by a John Smith. There was also a school, blacksmith, cabinetry shop, and hotel nearby. If the locals hoped to develop into a larger community, they had their hopes dashed when the Michigan Central Railroad was built through the nearby hamlet of Walkers instead. Kilmartin dwindled and the post office closed in 1911. 

Needless to say, I enjoyed my visit to Kilmartin, such as it is. The history was palpable. But there's just one thing ... the congregation has dwindled from its all time high of over 200 in 1915. Will there be a 200th anniversary?

* This story wasn't told by the actors. It comes from History of Burns Church Mosa 1835-1941. Alvinston Free Press, 1941, p. 48.

** "Kil" means church, hence the Scottish community means St. Martin's Church.

Day Trips: Mitchell

Considering Mitchell is less than an hour's drive from London, you'd think I'd get there more often. For some reason I rarely get beyond St. Marys but in the future that will change. Mitchell is an attractive small town with much for history buffs to admire. The adorable cottage at left is only one of many heritage homes.

Even the town's name is interesting. Mitchell is said to have been the surname of a black man who built a cabin on the banks of the Thames in pioneer days.* If so, Mitchell may be the only town in the province named after a black settler. 

The town's history appears a bit "whitewashed" on this cairn near the Mitchell dam. The plaque indicates the town was founded by the Hicks family:

But it has to me admitted that no history of Mitchell is complete without the Hicks. The man on the plaque, John Hicks, purchased his first lot in Mitchell in 1836. The family became associated with the hotel trade as proprietors of the Hicks House. The building by that name standing today is the third hotel, the second one having burned down in a devastating fire in 1872. One of the most outstanding structures in town, it has recently had its windows replaced and repair work done. But unlike some renovations, this one has attractively extended the life of the building, which now has stores on the main floor and apartments above. 

The red cherry bar from the Hicks House, complete with arches and carvings, has been relocated down the block into Faust's Home Hardware:

Another building associated with the Hicks family is 88 Blanshard Street, called "Dunelg" (Gaelic for "house on the hill"). It was built by Toronto architect Walter R. Strickland in 1876 for William Hicks, son of the hotel owner. It's hard to see from the front, being hidden by trees, but one does see this gatepost identifying the property. Note the grapes, which symbolize abundance and prosperity.

If one ventures up a side street, one does get a side-view glimpse of this imposing Italianate mansion. Note the terra-cotta lintels with prominent keystones above what look like original windows.

Glimpse of the stable at rear:

There are other imposing homes on Blanshard Street, like the extraordinary Italianate Villa at no. 78. Constructed by builder Thomas McClay, this 1881 mansion was owned by Sam Hewitt and later his son-in-law, Willard Heath, under whom it became a funeral home. Note more terra-cotta lintels and keystones, along with an imposing central tower with slate roof. Apparently a home for the living again.

No. 62 Blanshard, unfortunately, has a sagging porch and is badly in need of paint. Subdivided into apartments, it looks empty and in need of rescue:

There are interesting non-residential buildings in Mitchell. One is the well-preserved West Perth Public Library (formerly the Mitchell Public Library) on St. Andrew Street. It was built in 1910 using a $5,000 grant from Andrew Carnegie's foundation. There's an adorable turret next to the main door. 

I couldn't resist peeking into the turret, now a book nook, while inside:

A postcard from 1915 shows St. Andrews Street with the library (minus later additions) at left:

Author's collection.

I also visited Ketterson Park, site of Mitchell Agricultural Society's fall fair. There I discovered a circular "Crystal Palace" exhibition hall, built in 1917 and still in use. I wonder how many of these buildings are left in Ontario? Not much "crystal" left here, though, since the window and door openings are being covered with black and white fair-themed illustrations. See here for more info.

Other Mitchell buildings of note include the former Royal Hotel, built in 1865 on the northwest corner of St. Andrew Street and Ontario Road:

Once The Plaza movie theatre, this bright building at 36 Ontario Road became the Rose & Crown pub. Now it has another use:

Not every building in Mitchell is being "saved," though. I arrived in time to watch the demolition of the 1924 Mitchell High School, later the West Perth Municipal Building. The municipality has a new headquarters but surely this could have been used for something:

Below is little Trinity Anglican Church at 110 St. Andrew Street. This 1939 building replaced an earlier church that burned that year. This church is now empty, although there are other churches in Mitchell still in use. 

The first Anglican church in town was a now-demolished white-frame structure, built at the site of the Anglican cemetery on Blanshard Street. Which brings me to: 

Tombstone Tourism: Trinity Anglican Cemetery, Mitchell:

I always visit at least one cemetery in every town. I see no reason to ignore the community's earlier inhabitants just because they're dead.

Interesting imagery here: a star in the night sky as seen through a window. 

Many stones are in need of repair. The top part of this marker is sliding off.

But that's better than having a tree growing through it.

Interesting ironwork but no gravemarkers visible inside. 

Stones facing the street, perhaps meant to be read from the sidewalk. Unfortunately overgrown.

Gateway, probably once leading to the street, now leading nowhere. It's tempting to interpret this as a symbol depicting the futility of human life but I'm sure that wasn't intended.

If exploring a small town leaves you exhausted, the downtown Lion's Park, site of the 1963 Mitchell Dam, is a great place to relax.

The original dam, as seen in this 1911 postcard:

Author's collection.

If you're looking for a walking tour of Mitchell, just ask at the library for "Heritage Hike: Central Mitchell Loop" or a pamphlet called "Mitchell Architectural Walking Tour" created by the West Perth Heritage Committee.

*David E. Scott, Ontario Place Names. Allanburg, ON: DESPUB, Sixth edition, 2010. p. 293.