The 2026 MCA Cemetery Tour: Brrrrr and Beyond

It's that time of year again, when dedicated tombstone tourists lace up their walking shoes and head to Delaware to board the bus. On October 17, I joined the Middlesex Centre Archives Cemetery & Heritage Tour, along with about 30 other bundled-up tourists who braved 10° C weather to visit our local pioneers. 

Our first stop was Birr (yesterday it was brrrr) United Church Cemetery. I've visited this cemetery many times before, mainly to see the oak grave marker of pioneer George McConnell. Here's one of many photos I've taken of it over the years:

At one time, many grave markers were of wood, for the obvious reason that trees were the one resource our ancestors had in abundance. Most of these markers have not survived, of course, but this one has, since the Birr Women's Institute set it in cement in 1924 and the cemetery board had it incorporated into this brick cairn in 1986. George McConnell, by the way, lived up near Elginfield and operated a small tavern. Rev. William Proudfoot, the early pioneer preacher, is said to have stayed overnight at McConnell's and, later, in his diary, praised the supper of "venison and tea for 1 s. 6d." *

I've also photographed this 1988 cairn, which contains the bell from S. S. # 5, Birr School. When the school closed, former pupil John Haskett purchased the bell at an auction. After his death, his sister, Neva Loft, donated the Bell to Birr United Church, to be erected in the cemetery. 
 

As for the former Birr United Church, built in 1879 as a Methodist building, it's across Thirteen Mile Road and renovated into a gorgeous home. A fabulous example of adaptive reuse:

But I never object to going back to places I like, even cemeteries. This time, I photographed a few other graves, including that of John Griffith, a weaver from Birr, Ireland. Griffith, who operated a small shop on the cemetery property, is credited with naming the community after his old home.

These monuments are for Thomas Langford and his wife Martha Parkinson, who departed Mountmellick, Queen's County, Ireland, and arrived in the former London Township with their four sons in 1827. Thomas' sister Maria and her husband Isaac Langford died of cholera on their own voyage to Canada, leaving eight orphaned children. Someone, perhaps Thomas, picked up the children in Hamilton, brought them by ox cart to London Township, and dispersed them to various family members. Among the adoptive parents were Thomas and Martha, although they'd had five more children of their own after settling in London. Then poor Thomas was injured by a falling log at a barn raising and died on October 23, 1838.** Stories like these make me so glad I'm living today. 

I've discussed "white bronze" (actually zinc) monuments before (here and here), but I keep finding more of these markers, probably built by the White Bronze Monument Company of St. Thomas:

A close-up of the figure above. An anchor is a symbol of Christian hope.

Another white bronze monument nearby is dedicated to Catherine Morrow, who died in 1883, aged 28. Her marker also has an anchor, among other symbols and inscriptions:

This gravestone bears the name of the monument manufacturer. C. Miller & Co., Ingersoll, which also operated under the name Dominion Marble Works, produced ornamental stonework and gravestones. The company exhibited at Ontario agricultural fairs, hoping folks would remember their name when it came time to order a grave marker.

To the rear of the cemetery is a pump with the initials "BT." Below it states "Pat'd. 1918." The pump was made by Beaty Bros. Ltd. of Fergus, Ontario, founded in 1874 by George and Matthew Beatty. In 1918, the company secured the Canadian patent for a double-acting pump. Eventually, George's son William Beatty held over 300 such patents. Pumps say "BT" instead of the whole name because the pump parts are so small. The company amalgamated with General Steel Wares in 1969.

Our next stop, Birr Trinity Anglican Cemetery, was just down Thirteen Mile Road to the west. I'd never been to this cemetery, and I was intrigued to discover it was much larger than I thought, stretching a long way back from the road:

This was once the site of Birr Trinity Anglican Church, a Gothic edifice that opened January 18, 1880. It was designed by London architect Thomas Tracy (1848-1925), who also designed the London Mechanics' Institute on Dundas, the Grigg House on Richmond Street,  and the 1878 High School at Dufferin and Waterloo.***

Birr Trinity Anglican, from the tour flyer.

Sadly, attendance in this church declined in the 1970s, and it closed for regular services. For years it remained available as a chapel for the cemetery and for special occasions like weddings and memorial services. At some point, however, it was demolished. Today, only the steps remain, leading to nothing:

The highest point in the cemetery is the mound on which the church stood:

The most remarkable monument here is undoubtedly that of the Hobbs family, constructed by Hayes Brothers of St. Marys. While it's not unusual to see the Independent  Order of Foresters (I.O.F.) insignia, I've never seen it with a stag's head before. Impressive.

Also of interest is this monument to William Clark, complete with sailing ship:

And here's William's wife Margaret, complete with bird (I think). Note, however, Margaret's monument tells us more about William than his wife. Clark was "Late a deputed Officer in H Majesties Revenue Coast Guard, England." Sounds like he served in the English anti-smuggling maritime service. And he was so darn proud of it he bragged about it on his spouse's grave. 

Next, our group arrived at Melville United Church**** Ivan. Here we enjoyed coffee and tea prepared by the church ladies and had a chance to see the sanctuary. Not to mention warm up for a few minutes.

There's no danger of Melville United going the way of Birr Trinity Anglican for some time. It's still a going concern.

With a simple, yet beautiful, interior:

The congregation even built a new side entrance in 2016, in a style and colour that complements the main building:

The most interesting grave in the adjoining Ivan Cemetery is likely that of little Jimmie Johnson, age 7, who perished in the Victoria steamship disaster, May 24, 1881. 

Jimmie's one-year-old sister Margaret was also thought to have drowned, but was revived and died in 1976 at the age of 96, the last known survivor of the disaster.*****

Another sad tale happened to the family below, although the marker doesn't record it. Mrs. Bessie Argo, wife of the Rev. Argo of Melville Church, went to London with three others on December 19, 1906, to buy presents for the Sunday School children. On their return home, as they approached the CPR crossing on Richmond Street, they heard a train whistle. The driver whipped the horses, but Mrs. Argo couldn't wait. She was so frightened she jumped out of the cutter and was killed instantly. The horses became excited and overturned the cutter a short distance away. Rev. Argo was left with five motherless children but was given a plot in the cemetery for free. ******

Last, our tour arrived at Melrose Cemetery at the corner of Egremont Road and Vanneck Drive. This corner was once the heart of the flourishing pioneer village of Melrose. Here a Methodist Episcopal Church was built in 1872 and later became part of the United Church. 

Melrose United Church ca. 1930, from the tour flyer.

In 1961, a construction team working for the Department of Highways was widening Hwy. 22 (Egremont Road) near the church. Their work involved digging a ditch along the church's wall, which unfortunately resulted in the displacement of the wall and the discovery of quicksand along its base. 

Now if you're like me, you're surprised to hear we have quicksand in Middlesex County. I suppose I've seen too many Hollywood films and goofy old TV shows in which people were sucked into a bottomless pit. After thinking it over, I suppose quicksand can happen anywhere groundwater saturates the soil, making it unstable. It wouldn't have to be particularly deep.

At any rate, no one was allowed to worship in the church again. It closed and was demolished soon afterwards. The brand new organ was donated to Kilworth United and a stained glass window in memory of Mr. B. L. Cohoe was transferred to Hyde Park United.*******

So our tour saw another cemetery with a gaping hole where the church used to be:

This cemetery's celebrity is Robert Boston (1836-1922). Starting out as a Lobo Township councillor and reeve, Boston later became Middlesex Warden in 1889. He won a by-election in 1893 to become MP  for South Middlesex but didn't stand in the 1895 general election. Instead, he became Governor of the "London Gaol" from 1897 to 1906. "Mr. Lobo" was respected for his distinguished public service. Robert never married, and is buried with his sister Jane, who acted as his "hostess." ********

Below is the grave of Christian Boston, with what I think is a willow and a lighthouse. If that's a lighthouse, I suppose it would symbolize a guiding light through dark times, or perhaps a soul finding its way to a safe harbour in heaven. 

A lot of young children are buried at Melrose, a reminder of the days before vaccines:

Thanks to Krista Taylor, Middlesex Centre archivist, for organizing another interesting tour! Not to mention volunteers Bev Hughes and Glenn Scarborough, who provided interesting commentary at the cemeteries. 

* Jennie Raycraft Lewis, Llyndinshire: London Township, 1967, p. 46. 

** Alice Gibb, ed., London Township II: Families Past and Present. Arva, Ont.: The London Township History Book Committee, 2001, p. 246. 

*** The church has a brief write-up in Nancy Z. Tausky and Lynne D. DiStefano's Victorian Architcture in London and Southwestern Ontario: Symbols of Aspiration. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1986, pp. 220-222. The writers noted the church has "an aura of Gothic mystery."

**** In 1869 the church was named Melville, probably after either Andrew Melville or James Melville, prominent Scottish Presbyterians. The Heritage of Lobo 1820-1990. Ilderton, Ont.: Lobo Township Heritage Group, 1990, p. 102. 

***** Daniel J. Brock, Fragments From The Forks. London: LMHS, 2011, p. 312.

****** The Heritage of Lobo, pp.102-103.

******* Above p. 101.

******** Above  pp. 268, 290.

Preserving Presbyterianism in Carlisle

I've discussed the Carlisle community in North Middlesex before, including the plans to install the Presbyterian Church Heritage Centre in the former Carlisle United Church. Although the PCHC has been open for a year, I only recently returned to see the finished result. At last, I've seen the Presbyterian Museum and met its hardworking, knowledgeable curator, Ian Mason. 

If you find the Presbyterians a bit stuffy, their museum may not be your cup of Scotch whisky. But even if you're not an adherent of the Church of Scotland, you might want to take a look inside. I learned a lot on this visit. 

The PCHC's collection was first started by Rev. Dr. John A. Johnston of Hamilton in the 1990s. Why? Because he anticipated a time when the Presbyterian Church in Canada would be "property rich, and people poor." In other words, he was concerned that the artifacts belonging to the church would be lost when church buildings were closed and sold. That time has arrived.

Johnston became the founding curator of the museum when it opened in the basement of St. John's Presbyterian Church, Toronto, in 2002. Since St. John's closed to become condos, a new home was needed. There were lots of empty churches, but some were too expensive, others too decrepit. Carlisle United Church was a reasonable price and in good shape. Hence, after renovations, the PCHC moved into the main floor, and the small congregation worships in the basement. A win-win situation.

The Carlisle building is now full of neat stuff, including the replica pioneer chapel pictured below. Its Gothic windows, double entrance door, Gothic transom, and minister's door were crafted by Webwood Windows and Doors in Millbank, Ontario. The result is the kind of primitive building in which our pioneer ancestors worshiped.

The interior is filled with furnishings from 19th-century churches that have closed. 

The above view from the pulpit shows: long pews that were originally in Carlisle United Church and used by the congregation until the sanctuary was renovated in 2019; a smaller short pew from the 1870s, from a church near Monkland, Ontario; a lampolier (lamp + chandolier) from an antique dealer in St. Jacobs; 19th-century-wall lamps; a clock from Chalmers Presbyterian Church in Winterbourn, Ontario; a bookcase that belonged to Rev. Dr. John Bayne of Knox Presbyterian Church in Galt (Cambridge) that was given to his congregation after he died in 1859. 

Below, Curator Ian shows off the pulpit and other furnishings at the front of the replica chapel. At the bottom centre is a precentor's desk. The precentor led the congregation in the singing of psalms. 

There's more here than the replica chapel, though. The museum also houses the largest public collection of communion tokens in Canada:

If you're like me, you might have heard of communion tokens, but had no idea what they were for. At one time, church elders would interview parishioners before sacramental services and hand out tokens to those deemed worthy of taking part. Communicants would then give the token to an elder or the minister at the communion table on the day of the service. Eventually, these tokens were replaced by communion cards with people's names.

Then, of course, there are actual communion sets:

The museum has some lovely artifacts from around the world, including hand-crafted art, from countries where Presbyterian missionaries served. Items like these below make for an interesting anthropological collection:

There's also a minister's personal library, one of the oldest in Canada, with books from pre-1858. This theological collection (below left) rivals some of the oldies we sell at Attic Books.

In another corner is a huge organ. Some might be surprised to see it, since the Presbyterians have a conflicted history when it comes to allowing music in churches. Because the New Testament commands worshipers to sing and make melody with their hearts (such as in Ephesians 5:19) but does not mention instruments, Presbyterian leaders excluded organs and bands from their sanctuaries for many years. They preferred the simplicity of unaccompanied musical singing.

Eventually, progressive ministers and younger church members decided this attitude was uninspiring and out of touch. In fact, the lack of music was alienating young people and driving them to other denominations. Since church leaders and older parishioners were convinced that musical instruments were a theological no-no, you can see how "the great organ debate," as it became known, was a major cause of friction. 

As an example, when St. Andrew's Church, Napier installed an organ, older, stricter churchgoers were horrified. One old fellow complained that "it would not be long before the devil would have a fiddle in there too." He was right; years later, a fiddle accompanied the choir! Then there was another old boy, who often slept through the sermons. He complained that he never had the same feeling of sanctity while sleeping in church after the organ was added.*

The gigantic PCHC pipe organ wasn't in Carlisle Church to begin with. This Edward Lye & Sons of Toronto organ, made in 1930, comes from the former Dorchester Presbyterian Church in Dorchester, southeast Middlesex. When a new congregation purchased the building, they didn't want the organ. Hence, the organ was removed, restored over a period of nine months, and moved to Carlisle in November 2025. Now the only pipe organ in North Middlesex, it's tuned and ready for action.

There are other smaller instruments, such as this travelling pump organ made by the Thomas Organ Company in Woodstock, which was used for services conducted by Knox Presbyterian Church, Toronto at various sites around the city. It was even used at morning devotion services at the Spadina yards of the CNR. 

All these items and more tell the history of Canadian Presbyterianism. It's astonishing to have this treasure trove in a rather isolated rural area and I'm still concerned that visitors will have a hard time finding it. But Ian Mason says more people have visited him here than they did when the PCHC was in Toronto! Apparently my concerns are unfounded. 

Those wishing to visit can make an appointment by contacting Ian at pcheritagecentre@gmail.com or at 647-494-4559. 

Note: This is not the Presbyterian Church Archives, which is located in Toronto. Those wishing to contact the archives should look here.

Finally, I must brag about my own Presbyterian Church connection, the Rev. William Moore, D.D. (1838-1915), Moderator of the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church of Canada in 1897. William, the eldest brother of my great-grandfather, Robert Moore, was the minister at Bank Street Presbyterian Church, Ottawa, later renamed Chalmers Presbyterian Church, now Dominion-Chalmers United Church, from 1866 to 1902. Among his other accomplishments, he was a founder of Ottawa Ladies' College, which was sponsored by the Presbyterian Church.

Rev. William Moore ca. 1887. What whiskers!

* These stories appear in the article "Scorched Lodge Goat Mystery To Masons of Township of Metcalfe," London Free Press, January 30, 1932, p. 8.

Save 100 Stanley Street

A Letter to City Hall:

Photo with much tree cover, May 2021

To: City of London Planning and Environment Committee (PEC) - Councillors S. Lehman, S. Lewis, P. Cuddy, S. Stevenson, and S. Hillier. 

September 22, 2026 

Re: Proposed demolition of the heritage-designated home at 100 Stanley Street, London. 

Dear Councillors: 

I understand that PEC will review the City of London's demolition request for this designated property on the southeast corner of Wharncliffe Road South and Stanley Street. I urge you to turn down this application. 

For years, I have read about the CN Rail Bridge expansion project and the apparent need to demolish the heritage home at 100 Stanley Street. It’s good to learn that a less invasive plan for the bridge now reduces the need to dismantle the nearby house. 

This 1893 house should be preserved. Its heritage attributes include: the largest keyhole window in London; working pocket doors with bevelled glass; rectangular newel post topped with a chess piece; elaborate woodwork on corner fireplace; ceramic tiles on either side of the fireplace featuring musical instruments; original light fixtures; three stained glass windows; upstairs oriel window with wood embellishments. All these features are well-preserved. What a pity if London’s city councillors were so short-sighted as to lose these treasures, or to decide that a “commemoration” of the building with an historic plaque is an adequate tribute. 

 I would point out that other heritage buildings in this city, such as Central Cat Hospital at 596 Adelaide Street North, have been retained in situ despite extensive construction nearby. Surely the same can occur at 100 Stanley. 

 If, despite arguments to the contrary, you decide that saving this house at its current location is impractical, please consider a creative solution: moving the house to a safer, less busy location on a nearby side street and offering it for sale to a private buyer. 

 Future generations of Londoners will thank you for your foresight in saving 100 Stanley Street. 

Jennifer Grainger

For my remarks about 100 Stanley five years ago, see here.

Update, October 2026: City Council has voted to demolish. Only Councillors David Ferreira, Sam Trosow, and Anna Hopkins voted against. 

Cemetery Hill

Ever wondered why cemeteries are built on hills? Because a great many of them are, you know, even in the great plain of southwestern Ontario. But why? I think there are both practical and spiritual reasons. 

In the nineteenth century, public health officials realized that burying bodies close to town centres or in valleys caused fluids from decomposing bodies to seep into shallow water tables and wells. Hilltop burial sites prevented rain runoff from pushing contaminants towards residential areas.

But even rural areas had hilltop graveyards:

Kintore Methodist Cemetery

Remember, high ground also protects graves from flooding and soil erosion. If a cemetery is built on a river's bank or floodplain, saturated soils and rising waters can displace coffins and push them right out of the earth. 

Kintore Presbyterian Cemetery

And in agrarian communities, settlers needed their most fertile, flat, and easily tillable land for crops and livestock. Steep hillsides were less suitable for farming, making them practical places for cemeteries.

St. Mary's Church and Cemetery, Napier

But there's more to it than all that. Hills are also closer to heaven. So there's symbolism here:

North Nissouri United Church

Hills are also scenic. In the nineteenth century, the Rural Cemetery Movement led to intentionally designed, parklike cemeteries that provided a contemplative and emotional experience for mourners. I'm not sure how many of our rural pioneers were concerned with aesthetics, but such ideas often "trickle down" eventually.

Campbell Cemetery, 23711 Amiens Road. As my friend said, "You wouldn't envy the pallbearers."

Arkona Cemetery.

The path leading to McQueen Cemetery north of Port Dover. Not for those with a heart condition.

Birr Anglican Cemetery. Birr Trinity Anglican once stood on the hill top.