London Buildings: Art Deco & Art Moderne

London, Ontario isn't blessed with a lot of either Art Deco or Art Moderne. Either a lack of private funds or architectural conservatism prevented Londoners from going for these styles in their heyday. Now their rarity makes what we do have more significant. But, thanks to redevelopment and neglect, London will have even fewer of these buildings in the future. 

Art Deco takes its name from the Exposition des arts decoratifs held in Paris in 1925. The name was eventually applied to furniture, jewelry and a host of other objects that found an immediate audience among the wealthy who could afford them. Oddly, although most people at the time couldn't pay for high fashion, interior designers or personal architects, Art Deco became the style most identified with the Jazz Age.

In architecture, Art Deco consists of plain boxes with towers and projections above the roofline. These buildings are very plain. Decoration consists of geometric mouldings and other details in terra cotta or stone relief. 

Dominion Public Building on a postcard.*

London's best example is usually considered to be the Dominion Public Building on Richmond Street, with its multiple corners, angular shape, and mouldings. Officially opening on September 26, 1936, it was, along with the Huron & Erie Building, one of the tallest structures in London at the time.  Though most of it is only six storeys, its most recognizable feature is the tower on its east end. Built of smooth Queenston limestone, it's basically an early skyscraper with a long extension. 

Although there was a lack of private funds, the 1930s saw much government funding. The reason was the Public Works Construction Act of 1934, an attempt to invigorate Canada's failing economy through public works projects. The City of London received $1.5 million to construct this building, which housed the post office among other federal offices. It was designed by Chief Public Works Architect Thomas W. Fuller, with assistance from London architects John MacLeod Watt, Victor J. Blackwell, and Roy O. Moore. It was built by workers in need of employment. 

Another well-known edifice of the time period is the Elsie Perrin Williams Memorial Library on Queens Avenue.  Most of us call it the "old Central Library."

The building was constructed in 1939-40 using funds left to the city by wealthy Londoner Elsie Perrin Williams. Engraved along the top of the front facade, you'll see the mouthful "London Public Library Elsie Perrin Williams Memorial Art Gallery and Museum." It was an unusual library for its time, incorporating an auditorium, art gallery, separate children's room, and outdoor reading garden, as well as aisles and aisles of books. In other words, it offered a variety of educational opportunities for London's citizens. It was designed by London architects Thornton McBride, and L. Gordon Bridgman, with advice from Chief Librarian Richard Crouch, for whom an east end library branch is named. 

The new library built of Queenston limestone showed classical Greek influence with a projecting main entrance, Greek figures, and a mask of Socrates over the double doors. Note the large transom which had the affect of making the doorway look twice as tall. 

A lot of us have happy memories of this building going back decades. Here many of us borrowed our books, admired art, researched school projects, and looked up our family histories. So it's annoying to see it empty and deteriorating, despite having been designated by the city in 2001 for its historical and architectural value. Unfortunately, the current owner of this edifice, Farhi Landholdings, specializes in empty, deteriorating buildings. Elsie must be turning over in her grave.  

Another major Art Deco building in the city's core is the Huron and Erie building, constructed on the northeast corner of Dundas and Clarence. Designed by Victor J. Blackwell, the nine-storey structure was begun in September 1930. Like the Dominion Public Building, the project provided employment for many workmen in the Great Depression. At the time of completion in June 1931 it dominated London's skyline and remained the city's tallest building until the 1960s. Floodlit at night, it was topped by a revolving searchlight visible for 50 miles (80.5 km). 

This building is still home to a TD-Canada Trust branch. Those of us who do our banking here are treated to the sight of Italian marble walls and splendid antique elevator doors. Everything looks strong and sturdy, just as a bank should. 

Above the tall street-level windows there's a string of carved panels showing Canadians working in a variety of professions from coast to coast. Unfortunately, they aren't easy to see and many will miss them as they walk by:

Yet another downtown Deco is the 1938 Bell Telephone building on the southwest corner of Dufferin and Clarence. More Queenston limestone here. Originally only two storeys, the building housed offices and dial equipment, but many Londoners also ran in to pay their phone bills. 

London doesn't have many Art Deco homes. But here's an example, perched on a Victoria Street hill:

Then there's Art Moderne. While it has a different name, it's really a sub-style of Deco that emerged in the USA in the '30s. It emphasized horizontality with flat roofs, bands of windows, rounded corners, and a lack of symmetry. Why "Moderne?" Likely because its streamlined look showed a disdain for any of history's architectural styles. It was very twentieth century. 

In all likelihood our best example is 16 Wellington Road, soon to be demolished to make way for Bus Rapid Transit construction.** Built in spring 1946 as a printing plant, it was known as Art Novelty Co. Owner Robert Dobbyn designed and built it himself. Note its curved entrance way and the translucent glass blocks that were another hallmark of the Moderne style. Its industrial look was quite innovative for London, Ontario in the '40s:

Interestingly, the above building may live on - virtually - using 3D technology. London-based firm SkyDeploy has been hired by the city to use drone technology to digitally document some of the buildings to be demolished. While the project looks interesting, a) we don't know if the public will have access to these models, and b) it would be better to preserve the buildings. 

Another Moderne building is at Wellington and Bathurst. Built in 1949, it has the horizontal look, curved corner, and bands of windows associated with the style. 

Then there's the Berkley Apartments, built at 350 Dufferin ca. 1950. The decorative brickwork may be Art Deco but the rounded corners and uninterrupted flat roof are associated with Art Moderne:

*Postcards from the author's collection.

** Demolished as of June 27, 2024.

My Top 10 Favourite London, Ontario Buildings

There are many interesting buildings in London but these are my favourites:

1. The Old Courthouse

At the top of my list is the Old Courthouse, the oldest, most historic building in Middlesex County. The building has, of course, changed a great deal since being completed about 1831. The jail was added in 1844 and major additions were added to the main building in 1878 and 1911. Despite the various additions and renovations, no other building in London - or the county, for that matter - has so much history. Prisoners were kept in the basement "dungeon" before the jail was built, there were numerous hangings here (the earliest in public), and the famous Donnelly trial took place in the upstairs council chamber. London's "castle," based on Malahide Castle near Dublin, is the historic heart of London-Middlesex. 

Update, November 2019: The building now belongs to York Developments. The developer has promised to protect the heritage value when designing a "mixed use" project. But should a National Historic Site of Canada be in private hands? 

2. Aeolian Hall

Built in 1883-84, the building at Dundas and Rectory began life as London East Town Hall. The following year, 1885, London East was annexed by the City of London, making the building redundant. An excellent example of adaptive reuse, it has served many purposes over the years including a grocery store, cigar factory, pool room, the City Welfare Department, and London's first branch library. It is now refurbished as a concert hall, providing excellent acoustics - and a great deal more atmosphere for concert goers than Centennial Hall.

3. Eldon House

London's oldest surviving house was built in 1834 by John Harris, treasurer of the London District. For many years Eldon House was the centre of London high society as young officers from the garrison courted the five Harris daughters and Col. Thomas Talbot dropped in from time to time. Three descendants of Harris - George, Robin and Lucy - donated the house, its contents and grounds to the City of London in 1960 to be used as a museum. It's still a great place to tour or attend a lecture about local history. Be sure to go one of their occasional Behind the Ropes Tours in which visitors get to see parts of the house not usually open to the public, including the rather creepy basement which may have belonged to an even earlier house.

4. Fugitive Slave Chapel
Unlike some other buildings on my list, this one's not (yet) beautiful. The African Methodist Episcopal Church, or "Fugitive Slave Chapel," was built by London's fugitive slave community about 1848. Besides being a church, it was a centre of abolitionist activities, and John Brown may have addressed a meeting here to solicit support for the movement that led to the raid on Harper's Ferry in 1859. Eventually, the congregation built a new church at 430 Grey Street and the old building became a home. After it was threatened by demolition, the folks in the Fugitive Slave Chapel Preservation Project moved the building to its present site beside its daughter church on Grey Street.

Update, March 2021: This is what the Fugitive Slave Chapel looks like now. Not exactly progress, is it? Wrapped in plastic, the building is vulnerable to the elements and further deterioration. There are a lot of reasons for this, including church financial issues and - dare I say it? - a personality clash on the restoration committee. The current pastor insists the project is back on track. No sign of it. 

 

Update, 2022: Current word is that the Chapel will be moved to Fanshawe Pioneer Village. That, of course, will require more funding.

5. St. Paul’s Cathedral

The first frame St. Paul's opened in 1834 but was destroyed in a fire ten years later. The new building, now London’s oldest church, opened for worship in 1846. Toronto architect William Thomas, who also designed Brock's Monument at Queenston, created the new structure in the Gothic Revival style with a large tower at the west end and lots of pinnacles. A great many of us enjoy the gargoyles and other faces. Inside,  visitors can find beautiful stained glass windows, including two signed by Tiffany. And when there's no service or concert taking place, the atmosphere is that of an old English country church - peaceful and timeless.

6. Dominion Public Building
A completely different world right across from St. Paul's. London's tallest building when it was erected in 1936, the Dominion Public Building was built during the Depression to help provide employment for London workers. It's often considered one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in Canada.  

7. Normal School
The imposing High Victorian building on Elmwood Avenue in Wortley Village was completed in 1900 as a normal school or teacher's college, the third such institution in Ontario. Dominating the structure is a fabulous open bell tower with arches. Currently being renovated to become the YMCA Youth Centre of Excellence, the building promises to be an educational centre for many years to come.

8. Wright Lithographing

The company called Wright Lithographing was established in 1905 by John and George wright, originally on the east side of Wellington north of York. John, an engraver, and George, a lithographer, printed such diverse items as milk tickets, cigar bands, and limited edition lithograph prints. The building that today bears their name was built as a creamery but was purchased by London Life in 1906 to become the insurance company's new head office. It was London Life that added the third floor. The Wrights purchased the building in 1927 when London Life built its current headquarters. Interesting details on the building include this classical porch, unfortunately beginning to crumble. 

Update, March 2021: Now vacant for over a decade, the Farhi-owned building is in poor condition, the clock over the door removed for "repair" and its lower windows boarded up to prevent illegal entry. 

Update, November 2021: The clock has been replaced, along with the letters. But still no plans for reuse.

9. Ridout Street Restoration
I'm cheating here, because this is more than one building. At far left there's the two-storey white brick constructed to house a branch of the Bank of Upper Canada in 1836. It's said to be London's second brick building, the first being the Old Courthouse. Then there's the three-storey white brick terrace built in 1847, which, in its early years, also housed banks such as the Gore Bank. The carriageway is now enclosed by a door. The buildings look firm and solid, as banks should be. Next is Dr. Alexander Anderson's "Walmington House" which he used as an office and residence. Altogether, this row gives us an idea of what an Upper Canadian streetscape would have looked like. Except, of course, for the Farhi signs.

Update: The southernmost of the buildings burned in September 2018. Its restoration - if there is one - proceeds at a snail's pace under the ownership of Farhi Holdings. Now, in June 2021, London City Council has voted to rezone this property so Farhi can build a 40-storey skyscraper on site. See here to learn why that's a bad idea.

10. Covent Garden

I add this in case readers think I never like new buildings. Not so. I like stylish modern buildings that fit nicely into their location and are an improvement over whatever was demolished to build them. Since the earlier Covent Garden was looking rather tired, the new one, which opened in 1999, was sorely needed. Not only is it reminiscent of the building Paul Peel painted in 1883, but the space out front is suggestive of the open-air market founded in 1835. This is still one of downtown London's most appealing attractions.