Art & History in the Market Lounge

Local artist Sheri Cowan and I have teamed up for an art and historical display in Market Lounge at Covent Garden in downtown London. "The Lounge," on the southwest corner of the market's second floor, is an event rental space, but it also happens to have three display cases, now filled with Sheri's paintings of local historic buildings and other sites. 

Sheri has been an artist for over 25 years, painting, drawing, and print-making. Her prints and greeting cards featuring local hang-out spots may be purchased at Attic Books, Museum London, and Western Fair Market. She's even produced a mural for the latter. I featured her painting of Wortley Village's Black Walnut here.

Since Sheri and her art are well known in the London area, I was flattered when she asked me to write captions for the ten paintings to be displayed at the Market Lounge. The paintings are of Covent Garden itself, Aeolian Hall, Arva Flour Mill, Attic Books, The Grand Theatre, Novacks, The Old Courthouse, Richmond Tavern, Port Stanley Lift Bridge, and Jumbo. My captions tell a little of the history and significance of all those iconic places. Do come down and have a look!

The display case (photos by Sheri).

The 18th Annual London Heritage Awards

On April 9, London's Heritage Awards were held at Museum London again. Sponsored by ACO London and Heritage London Foundation, the awards honour individuals and organizations who have contributed to the preservation of London's history and built heritage. As usual, I was in attendance and was especially impressed by the following:

At left is 839 Queens Avenue, built ca. 1881 in what's now called Old East Village. Owner Barb Penner received a Restoration Project Award for her work on this heritage-designated stunner. Note the intricate woodwork with stencil-cut semicircular arches surrounding the double window and the brackets on the space above the bay window below. The double-leaf front doors have carved panels. The porch handrail, spindles and flooring have been restored. And Ms. Penner even had wooden storm windows custom made to fit. Bravo!

I'm really picky when it comes to heritage restorations but, believe it or not, I wouldn't change a thing here. The result makes me feel like I've stepped back in time. The house is currently for sale, so I hope the next owner preserves it. 

I've been driving past 538 Colborne Street (right) on my way to work for years and was concerned about its dilapidated look. But thanks to Ken Madlener, this 1909 Dutch Colonial home is looking good again and has also won a Restoration Project Award. Once a family home, it's now a triplex. Many building owners wouldn't have concerned themselves with exterior restoration - but not Ken. He restored the covered front porch, rebuilt the wooden pillars and their stone bases, and restored the Juliet balcony above. Even the original leaded glass and stained-glass windows were carefully restored and reused. Once again, this building looks good from the street. 

The building at left must be one of London's greatest homes. 527 Princess Avenue, located in East Woodfield, is a gorgeous late Victorian Queen Anne mansion, built in 1899-1900 for well-known London photographer Frank Cooper. Note the imposing capped tower on one side (because what's a Queen Anne without a tower?) and the elaborate window in the front gable. There's also a second-floor balcony and beautiful detail in the gable over the front entry. A special touch is the lovely wraparound verandah, perfect for relaxing on a summer evening, sipping a cold bevie, and watching the world go by. The Small-Scale Restoration Project Award is for replacing the fish-scale pattern slate roof, copper trim and tower finial. Because details matter.

Elmwood Lawn Bowling Club, on last year's Geranium Heritage House Tour, isn't a place you'd think would receive a heritage award. But the club, founded in 1911, has received a Cultural Landscape Award, meaning the whole place is of importance, not just a building. At first a men's-only club, designed for a variety of sports, Elmwood now welcomes women (duh!) and, well, everyone plays lawn bowling. Not being coordinated enough for any sport, I'd never been here before last year's GHHT and never knew where the club was. Turns out it's tucked in behind Edward, Elmwood, Bruce, and Brighton streets in Old South. There's even a 1916 clubhouse on the lot, extensively renovated. Such a genteel oasis. 

Other awards went to individuals for their contributions to London history. A Local History Award went to artist Cheryl Radford for her illustrations of streetscapes and local architecture. Her art has appeared in personal collections, local galleries, greeting cards, and books she has co-authored about London's history. Here's one from my collection: 

ChKs Publishing, 2015

Another Local History Award went to Lorraine Tinsley for her well-researched history of London's Oxford Park neighbourhood. Which, of course, I've also got:

Oxford Park Community Association, 2024

There were other awards, recognitions, and commendations, of course, including one for Banting House, which recently underwent numerous repairs, window refurbishment, porch restoration, etc. A "Compatible Design" award went to the owners of a new house in Old South which doesn't fit too badly into the historic streetscape. Recognition also went to a renovation on Elmwood Avenue East that was on last year's Geranium Heritage House Tour. The multiplex was a definite eyesore, so the owners should be commended for removing a coating of grey stucco and repointing and cleaning the brick underneath. However, the building has been completely gutted, the former nine units turned into seven, and there are few historical vibes whatsoever. 

I'm a bit unsure about giving a heritage award to the builders of a new house, just because it looks a bit old. I'm also not thrilled about giving an award for a place with few remaining heritage features. I know why these awards were given, of course. Drive through any older neighbourhood and you'll see numerous examples of how NOT to renovate an older building. So the Awards organizers need to award any effort to preserve anything. If even the slightest consideration has been given to heritage, bless the owners' hearts. Give them an award.

Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa Celebrates 190 Years

A view of Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa from Kilmartin Cemetery across Dundonald Road, west Middlesex County. 

On Sunday, March 30 at 2:00 pm I attended a rare event, an historic church celebrating an anniversary. At a time when many rural churches are closing, it's a pleasure to see one commemorating the 190th anniversary of the congregation. 

The March 30th event wasn't an actual church service, mind you, but a celebration of the surrounding community and the role Burns Presbyterian played in it. The occasion, more historical than religious, was entitled "A Stroll Through Time." Actors portrayed fictional, but plausible, characters from the church's past, including an early Scottish settler, a later Dutch arrival, the last Precentor, a member of the women's auxiliary, etc. Sometimes amusing and often poignant, the stories of former congregants were well written and allowed the modern audience to imagine life in Middlesex County, Ontario in the Good Old Days. 

Event flyer includes an old photograph of the church and cemetery.

One only needs to stroll through the nearby cemetery to discover the pioneers were Scottish. Gravestones list McPhails and McIntyres and McLachlans and McVicars and Campbells and Monroes ... Well, you get the picture. 

These Scottish Highlanders arrived in the 1820s after being dispersed from Argyllshire (now Argyll) during "the clearances" - the forced eviction of people from their homes in the Highlands and Scottish Isles between 1750 and 1860. Why the eviction? Because their landlords discovered they could make more money raising sheep than by traditional farming, and therefore chose to dislodge their former tenants. With nowhere to go, large numbers of Scots had no choice but to migrate across the sea to Upper Canada.

Being good Presbyterians, the settlers wanted a church. The first, built of logs in 1835, was opposite today's church on the site of the cemetery. Unfortunately, after work began, the builders had a disagreement about the location. Construction stopped. The congregation spent the first winter in an unfinished building with no roof, windows or floor. Brrrr! And since there were no pews, everyone sat on exposed boards. It's hard to imagine something less comfortable. Not surprisingly, when spring arrived, the congregants gave up on this edifice and started again. The site continued as the cemetery.

Rear of flyer shows the four Burns Presbyterian Church structures. Note the typo at upper right: it should say "Early 1840s"

Another, more successful, log church was built in the 1840s. Not only did it possess four walls and a roof, it even had a wood stove to provide warmth. Unfortunately, in the days when there were assigned pews, the stove was a problem. Those who sat at the front, farther from the stove, shivered through the services. Those whose pews were at the rear, near the stove, roasted. Half way through, someone at the rear would get up and close the damper, cutting off the heat altogether and causing folks at the front to freeze. One elderly man, whose family pew was among the chilly, decided he could no longer stand this state of affairs. Accordingly, one winter Sunday he took the damper off as he entered the church and carried it to the front with him.*

But progress dictated a brick building. Hence, in 1867, a new church was built. The first service in that building was held by Dr. Robert Burns, a well-known professor of church history at Knox College, Toronto. The congregation must have been very impressed with the staunch Dr. Burns; they promptly named the church after him. It's been Burns Presbyterian Church Mosa (the latter is the township) ever since. 

Unfortunately, when the church needed a new roof, slate was chosen. Being too heavy, it caused the walls to buckle. One imagines congregants looking nervously about them as they sat in their pews, wondering if this was the week the church would collapse on their heads. Yet another building was needed.

Thus the current church, finished 1892, came to be. It's been redecorated over the years, of course. A controversial organ - how shocking! - forced the retirement of the Last Precentor in the 1900s. The hand-dug basement allowed for a church kitchen and offices in the 1950s. 

Services have changed as well, not being in Gaelic since 1909. Interestingly, the flyer indicates a Gaelic Service, conducted by Rev. Theresa McDonald-Lee, will be held Sunday July 20 at 10:00 am. Who will understand it? And an anniversary service will be conducted by Rev. Laurie McKay on Sunday April 27 at 2:00 pm. How would Dr. Burns feel about female ministers, I wonder? 

I bought the church cookbook (right) while I was there. First of all, to support the church. Second, because I'm a sucker for church cookbooks, filled with delicious dips, satisfying soups, scrumptious baked goods (can't wait to try the Aero Bar Squares, made with real Aero Bars). And third, because as operational churches become rarer, so will church cookbooks. 

By the way, Burns was once a village church. The surrounding area was known as Kilmartin,** after a town back in Argyll. A post office by this name opened in 1861, operated by a John Smith. There was also a school, blacksmith, cabinetry shop, and hotel nearby. If the locals hoped to develop into a larger community, they had their hopes dashed when the Michigan Central Railroad was built through the nearby hamlet of Walkers instead. Kilmartin dwindled and the post office closed in 1911. 

Needless to say, I enjoyed my visit to Kilmartin, such as it is. The history was palpable. But there's just one thing ... the congregation has dwindled from its all time high of over 200 in 1915. Will there be a 200th anniversary?

* This story wasn't told by the actors. It comes from History of Burns Church Mosa 1835-1941. Alvinston Free Press, 1941, p. 48.

** "Kil" means church, hence the Scottish community means St. Martin's Church.

Canadian Veteran Biographies

We live in strange times. Our neighbour, the USA, is no longer defending democracy. They've elected a convicted felon to the presidency but an unelected billionaire appears to be running the government. They've placed tariffs on Canada, supposedly because of fentanyl and illegal migrants, although everyone knows drugs and guns flow north over the 49th parallel.   

Canada, on the other hand, has lurched to the left. Maple MAGA and the Freedom Convoy notwithstanding, the past few years have witnessed the toppling of statues, the renaming of our schools, calls for a republic, a rise in Antisemitism, the DEI obsession, a recent Prime Minister who claimed we have no core identity, and a school that decided a Palestinian song was appropriate for Remembrance Day.

I'd like to discuss that last one because it bothers me. Not because a Palestinian song was played, but because it was the only song played. Perhaps the teachers running the Remembrance Day programme  at Sir Robert Borden High think Canada's own wars are too long ago to matter. Or perhaps our history is just too white. The principal stated that he didn't want students to think the day was just about "a white guy who has done something related to the military." 

Since everybody's history matters and Canadian history should matter to Canadians, it's annoying that there should be such a disconnect between our history and our schools. While students should be encouraged to think about current events, they also need to understand our past. That includes our military heritage, especially on Remembrance Day.

So I'm proud to introduce Nick Corrie's new website, Canadian Veteran Biographies. Nick, a member of London's own First Hussars, has been writing biographies of 1H veterans for years, mainly for the use of their families and the First Hussars Museum. These bios of WWII vets tell the stories of the men's lives - where they were from, why they joined the Hussars, what they went through during the war, and the lives they lived afterward - if they made it home. The bios will be a great educational tool for future military historians. 

The biographies are revealing and deeply touching. Howard Spark Wright, for example, was a pilot in the Royal Air Force Ferry Command, flying more than 30 different aircraft across the Atlantic. Finally, he and his navigator disappeared while delivering a Canadian-made Mosquito bomber to Scotland. When his pregnant wife received the letter advising her of his death, she was so overwhelmed that her tiny daughter, Carol, had to tell her baby brothers that Daddy was never coming home.

Or Major James Stewart Duncan of the First Hussars, who, suffering from the horrors of the D-Day landing and its aftermath, asked to be relieved of his command. Despite resigning for the good of his regiment, the stigma of cowardice haunted him for the rest of his days.  

Or Manni Peterson, who wrote his own story, including his return to his parents' Manitoba farm in January 1946:  "Many times over the years in the army I used to long for my mother’s home-baked hot brown bread with fresh butter. Even before I got to the door, I could smell it. My father wondered why I had tears running down my cheeks when I should be happy to be home."

So far, the bios are only for the Second World War. Contributions are needed, especially for World War I. If you have stories to contribute, please send them to Nick. Because these stories are extraordinarily important, not only for us but for future generations. If we want a world that continues to respect freedom, sacrifice, history, and tradition, we must remember the world wars and the men who fought them. 

A North London Estate

A London city staff report supports a property owner's bid to remove an 1870s house from the city's heritage registry. If approved, the change will allow the owner to sell the property to the London District Catholic School Board (LDSCB) for the construction of a future high school. Below is the letter I sent November 29, 2024 to Planning and Environment Committee (PEC), London City Hall:

Dear PEC members: 

Re: December 3 PEC agenda, scheduled item 3.6. Request to remove the Heritage Listed Property at 1927 Richmond Street from the Register of Cultural Heritage Resources.

I am writing to oppose de-listing, and presumably, demolishing, the home at 1927 Richmond Street.

I understand that, under provincial rules, a property must meet at least two of nine criteria for heritage designation and that a city staff report has found this house has only one.

According to the Summary of Evaluation in Part 4.5 of Stantec’s report, this house was built in the Italianate style but was renovated to add Tudor Revival elements. Row 1 of the table states that: "This blending of architectural styles does not constitute a recognizable style of a type of architecture that is particular to a group, time, or place. As a result, it cannot be considered to serve as a symbol or portrayal of Tudor Revival or Italianate architecture." Below, Row 9 of the same table states that: “The property is setback from Richmond Street and partially screened by fencing, setback, and vegetation. In addition, views within this area are heavily influenced by the brick wall part of Foxborough Chase (1890 Richmond Street) and the mid-rise apartment building at 1985 Richmond Street.”

Respectfully, I would argue the following:

· The fact that an Italianate building was converted into Tudor Revival does not decrease its historical interest and in fact increases it. This home shows how an older building can be adapted to newer needs and tastes. It has many of the defining characteristics of the Tudor Revival style, including a steep front gable roof, half timbering, tall narrow windows, and a stucco finish. I would argue that the home does indeed meet Criterion 1 for heritage designation based on these details.

· Neither the Ontario Heritage Act nor Stantec’s report appears to define what constitutes a “landmark.” The language in Row 9 suggests that the building cannot be a landmark due to fencing and vegetation; if these were removed, and the home more visible from Richmond Street, would this make it a landmark? Row 9 also references walls and apartments but surely proximity to these does not determine a structure’s landmark status either. If a building loses its significance because apartments are built next door, then the City of London should not let York Developments build a tower next to the Old Courthouse, lest the latter also be “heavily influenced” and lose its historical relevance.

· The city’s Register of Cultural Heritage Resources was prepared by architecturally and historically knowledgeable persons in years past. 1927 Richmond does not seem to have changed since being placed on the Register. I see no point in listing buildings if they can be de-listed at the whim of an owner, purchaser or a heritage consultant hired by them. This defeats the purpose of the register, to inform the city and public about our shared heritage and to recommend buildings to preserve for posterity.

· The London District Catholic School Board could easily build a school next to the home, which could be used for offices or recreation by staff and students. Alternatively, the lot could be severed and the house sold separately. The building is not deteriorating or unattractive. What a charming home it would make for a growing family.

In summary, I believe 1927 Richmond meets at least two of the criteria to merit designation under the Ontario Heritage Act. That it is surrounded by newer construction and partially hidden should be irrelevant. Please consider denying the owner’s request to de-list this property or suggest that the Catholic School Board find a way to preserve it either on or off the future school property.

Sincerely,

Jennifer Grainger

Update, December 4, 2024: PEC voted 5-0 to de-list, without discussion, despite 18 out of 22 letters written to them calling for it to be preserved. Councillors Steve Lehman, Shawn Lewis, Peter Cuddy, Elizabeth Peloza and Steven Hillier make up PEC. Clearly their minds were already made up before the committee meeting. 

Tombstone Tourism: The Middlesex Centre Archives Cemetery Tour

On October 5, I attended Middlesex County Archives' Second Annual Cemetery Tour. Since I missed last year's trip, I really looked forward to the 2024 edition and this day of cemetery sightseeing did not disappoint. 

My friend and I are such keen Tombstone Tourists that we arrived absurdly early. But that was fine, since it gave us an opportunity to visit one of last year's graveyards while we awaited the start of this year's tour. 

Tiffany Cemetery

Across Gideon Road from Middlesex County Archives is Tiffany Cemetery, named after Gideon Tiffany who's buried there. (Yes, the road is named after him too.) It was Tiffany who donated land for this cemetery over 200 years ago and some burials did take place as early as 1805, like the sign says. 

Tiffany was one of those early pioneers who did some of everything. Despite being an American from New Hampshire, he went to Niagara to become King's Printer for Upper Canada in 1794. Later, in 1799, with his brother Silvester, he began publishing the Canada Constellation, Upper Canada's first independent newspaper. 

Perhaps Tiffany tired of the news business. In 1801, he purchased 2,200 acres in Delaware Township from Ebenezer Allan, taking over two sawmills owned by the latter. In the wilds of Delaware, he and his brother-in-law, Moses Brigham, produced lumber for the Detroit market. The village of Delaware was surveyed by Gideon's brother Oliver in the mid-1820s in hopes of it becoming the administrative and judicial seat of the London District. (No such luck.) For 30 years, Tiffany served in various township offices, including assessor and overseer of roads and fences. He also became a lieutenant in the 1st Middlesex Militia. Years later, he took the losing side in the 1837 Rebellion and was jailed for it ... but was tried and acquitted in 1838. 

As his gravemarker (right) states, he was born in 1774, came to Delaware in 1801, and died there aged 80 in 1854. He's buried with his wife, Ruth Tomlinson, who he married in about 1802 and who lived until 1850. The couple had five children who survived to adulthood. 

More information about this legendary pioneer can be found in this bio by another local legend, historian Dan Brock. 

Christ Church Pioneer Cemetery

At last the official tour began. The first official stop on this year's tour was back across the street, next to the Archives building. The land for this burial ground was donated by Dr. Oliver Tiffany in 1834. There was a frame church, Christ Church Anglican, on this site as early as the 1830s. Progress dictated that it should be replaced by a brick building in 1885. Alas, the era of church building is over and the age of church demolition has begun. Christ Church was demolished in 1999, leaving a large gap in the centre of the cemetery. 

The tour organizers outdid themselves in providing information. Archives volunteer Sid Prior placed signs on various graves with bios of the deceased. This had the effect of bringing the dead to life - figuratively, anyway - by letting us know who they were. No longer were they just names on a marker. 

Numerous gravemarkers are toppled over here. Rumour has it that, in another Anglican cemetery, a child was killed by a falling marker. To prevent this from happening at Christ Church, reps from the Diocese of Huron came out here and knocked over various monuments. It seems unlikely that the church itself would deliberately vandalize Christian graves to prevent accidental deaths (or lawsuits) and yet these tombstones are in worse condition than in most local cemeteries. If these were my relatives, I'd be quite annoyed. BTW, I've contacted the diocese about this but, to date, I've had no response. 

Our bus tour took us to Poplar Hill Baptist Church for lunch. Actually, we brought our own lunches but the church ladies served us tea and coffee in the church hall and opened the sanctuary for us to have a look. 

Poplar Hill Baptist Church is still active.

Close-up of painted balcony railing.

Wrought iron on pew.

Poplar Hill Cemetery

This is a biggie, the largest cemetery in the former Lobo Township, being four acres with a couple of acres in reserve. The first burial here was that of John McLellan in 1841:

But there are more Zavitz graves here than anybody else - 133 in total.* This infant is only one:

Below is a marker of "white bronze," many of which are scattered in cemeteries throughout southwestern Ontario. Actually, the markers are pure zinc, the colour is achieved by applying a chemical oxidizing agent. The result seems to be indestructible, free from corrosion, doesn't grow moss or lichen, doesn't absorb moisture and is unaffected by frost. The markers might have been made by the White Bronze Monument Company of St. Thomas, in business ca. 1883-1900 but not all markers have the maker's name. 

A "white bronze" marker is typically an obelisk, like this one with funerary urn up top.

Another interesting detail. Name plates like the one below could be removed to provide access to a hollow interior, giving rise to legends of markers being used by bootleggers to store liquor during Prohibition.**A more prosaic explanation is that the nameplates could be removed to be corrected or added to, if necessary.

Why aren't there more of these markers? Were they expensive or just too newfangled for stodgy Victorians?

Next, a couple of military men:

Asa John Patterson, son of Neil Patterson and Martha Coates, was born October 12, 1895. He enlisted in Strathroy on November 26, 1915. In A. Co. 135th Battalion. Died at Vimy Ridge April 9, 1917. Actual burial place is Nine Elms Military Cemetery north of Arras, France.

Private Leonard J. Smith, 4th Battalion CEF. Born on September 29, 1898 in Lobo Township, son of Judson Albert Smith and Loretta Ellen Quackenbush. He served in World War I but died in London at Westminster Hospitl of myocarditis, March 18, 1939, aged 40.

Interesting Sinclair family stone:

Note metal plate covering cavity on the right.

Empty. For a souvenir of the deceased? Original or added later?

By the way, our guide at Poplar Hill, Larry Griffith, informed us that Poplar Hill Cemetery saw a botched attempt at grave robbery in about 1902. The culprits were probably medical students looking for fresh cadavers. $50 was spent on ads in the London Free Press and London Advertiser newspapers offering a reward to apprehend the culprits but the reward was apparently unclaimed. How macabre.

St. John's Anglican Cemetery, Arva

Our third stop of the day was St. John's Anglican Church and Cemetery, southwest corner of Richmond Street and Medway Road. The land for the church and cemetery was donated by John Fraleigh way back when the roads were called Proof Line and Concession 7. A frame church was built in 1823 and the current church on the site in 1875. The village of Arva, by the way, was once known as St. John's, same as the church but, when a post office opened here in 1852, it was named Arva after a community in Ireland.

Early photo of the original St. John's Church, Arva. Reprint from the author's collection.

Interior, St. John's Anglican, Arva.

Grave of Rev. Charles Crosbie Brough, St. John's minister 1841-83. The north London neighbourhood of Broughdale was named for this family. 

A great many Shoebottoms in this cemetery, including this infant who lived 21 days.

An attractive row of Ardill graves.

Perhaps of greatest interest at Arva is a cairn moved here from another location. White Church Cemetery was located south of Fanshawe Park Road on the east side of Wonderland (formerly Concession 5 and Cameron Sideroad). In 1934, some burials were re-interred under a stone cairn built to display them. (Others burials couldn't be identified since their wooden markers had become illegible.) In the early 1990s, Fanshawe was widened and this cairn was professionally dismantled to be reassembled at Arva. 

If you're wondering how many human remains were left at Fanshawe and Wonderland, you're not alone. This is no one's fault. Some graves would not have had markers, older wooden markers had decayed, and it would be impossible to move everyone. 

Many have lived who have no memorial. 

* According to The Heritage of Lobo 1820-1990, p. 111. I'd hate to count them all myself.

** William G. Stewart, Nature Rambles, 2000, p. 56-62.