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Guide Susan Ratcliffe with tour attendees. |
Guelph is nicknamed the Royal City. What's with that? Well, city founder John Galt chose the name Guelph, a word that's derived from the Italian Guelfo, which in turn is derived from the Bavarian Welf. The reference is to the House of Welf and was chosen to honour King George IV, reigning monarch at the time of the city's founding. His Majesty's family, the Hanoverians, were descended from the Welfs. Hence, the "Royal City."*
Leaving London bright and early, nearly thirty of us reached Guelph at about 10:30, just in time to meet up with Susan Ratcliffe, our guide for a downtown walking tour. Susan is president of ACO Guelph Wellington so she's the perfect escort for a heritage tour of central Guelph. This is one knowledgeable lady. She hardly consulted her cue cards as she led Londoners around the core of the city she knows so well.
Our tour began on "Catholic Hill," site of the Basilica of Our Lady Immaculate and other buildings associated - or formerly associated - with the Roman Catholic Church. This hill, by the way, is the highest point in the city. When he founded Guelph in 1827, Galt set aside the hill for the church's use, as a compliment to his friend Bishop Alexander Macdonell. A local bylaw prevents any buildings from being taller than Catholic Hill, allowing it to remain the city's most outstanding feature. A far cry from London, where the Old Courthouse will be surrounded by skyscrapers in future.
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View of downtown Guelph from Catholic Hill. |
The current structure is the third church to overlook the city. The first, a frame structure named St. Patrick's, was built by 1835 but burned down. Those early wooden buildings generally did sooner or later. Next came St. Bartholomew's which lasted a few decades. The current building, Our Lady Immaculate, designed in the Gothic Revival style by architect Joseph Connolly, was begun in 1877 using local limestone. The edifice was complete by 1888, except for the twin towers which weren't added until 1926.
Postcard dated 1907 shows church before towers added. ** |
Many smaller churches dot downtown Guelph. Although they're less ornate (and less Catholic), they're still made of local limestone. A couple of them can be seen from Catholic Hill ...
... but there are many more. Not all of them are still churches. For example, Chalmers Presbyterian (later United) Church on Quebec Street is now Royal City Mission, a statement on the times in which we live. Those saddened to see a closed church may take comfort in the building's continued use for outreach to the poor. The former sanctuary is now a dining room.
Back on Catholic Hill, and built of local limestone, is the former Loretto Convent, now Guelph's Civic Museum (note Our Lady in the background). While an excellent example of adaptive reuse, I was reminded of Museum London, in that that the building seemed full of empty space. Humph.
Our tour continued below Catholic Hill. Right at the bottom is the Albion Hotel, an 1856 tavern boasting the second oldest liquor license in Ontario.*** Known as The Albion since 1867, the building is said to be haunted by the ghost of a "white lady. But what old building doesn't have a ghost? Perhaps more surprising are the tales of Al Capone making bootlegging deals here during prohibition. And strangest of all, rumours of tunnels leading up to Our Lady, all closed off and collapsed. The tunnels are said to have been used for bootlegging - if they exist, which isn't proven.
Another building in nicely restored condition is the Petrie Building, the last remaining example in Canada of a pre-1890 machine-stamped metal-clad building. This downtown Guelph landmark, designed by architect John Day for pharmacist A. B. Petrie, opened in 1882. The facade was made by the Ohio firm of Bakewell and Mullins, which ran a mail order business allowing customers to create the exterior best suited to their business. Note the mortar and pestle, commonly in use by druggists, up on top. This building is gorgeous. And, gosh, the Second Empire Kelly Building next door looks pretty good too.
A 1911 postcard shows the Petrie and Kelly buildings at right. |
Another early postcard shows Guelph's C.N.R. station:
The station is still in use today:
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It may look like Galt's lower half is hiding in a box, but this bust by sculptor John Miecznikowski actually sits on a tall black granite pillar. |
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An outdoor memorial in a magnificent garden. |
** All postcards are from the author's collection.
*** According to our guide. But she didn't say who had the first. If you know, do tell.